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STAYPUT HOME

JERUSALEM

TEL AVIV

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UPPER GALILEE

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SEFAD, ROSH PINA

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Stayput Tel Aviv

Next year Tel Aviv will celebrate its 100th anniversary. With an energetic mayor, a bustling high-tech industry, and a booming financial sector, the funds flowing into the first Hebrew city are giving Israeli art and culture a boost that they have never had before.

Tel Aviv is blossoming. A city that has always attracted the single and the young, today Tel Aviv is a magnet for wealthy retirees, who flock to the high-rise apartment buildings as fast as they can be built. Liberal and relaxed, this is where the annual gay pride parade can be held without ultra-Orthodox demonstrations and where the Belz Hasidim live next door to bohemians. It is a city full of restaurants and shops that offer a combination of international trends and unique local flavors. A city that is young at heart as well as young in history compared to age-old Jerusalem, Tel Aviv is a year away from celebrating its centennial.
Urban development in Tel Aviv has always been rapid. However, in the last decade, the city is finally beginning to face the sea. The port area has received a facelift, becoming a center of activity and fun. Joggers fill the huge wooden deck opposite the sea, while the pubs and clubs are the center of activity at night. Along the beach, the promenade between the Tel Aviv and Jaffa ports has been completed and work to expand it both north and south is progressing. Dizengoff Street is going through a revival, symbolizing what is happening in many of the other shopping boulevards of the city. Dizengoff Street has become Tel Aviv’s fashion showcase.
Tel Aviv is nearly devoid of archaeological sites, but it was here that the State of Israel came into being. Tel Aviv abounds with museums that tell the story of the creation of Israel. They stand side by side with the dream houses of the founders of the city, the international-style buildings of the 1930s and 1940s, markets, coffee shops, bars, and trendy stores. Many of these are not in malls, but along the streets, each of which has its own special style and flavor.
Parking is a major problem in Tel Aviv, but it’s only a short walk from one point to another. Wandering around Tel Aviv is a dynamic experience of multicultural action that seems to never stop. 

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The Real Jaffe

Few tourists make it to the Ajami neighborhood, which used to be the home of Jaffa’s elite. They settled along today’s Hazedef Street, in the northern part of Ajami, living in huge mansions surrounded by small orchards and gardens. Today the mansions are being renovated, many by architect Ilan Pivko, and are home to some of Tel Aviv’s wealthier residents.
The southern part of Ajami is a sad story of neglect. Drug-related crimes and poverty are rampant among the 30,000 Arabs who live here. But the potential and the beauty of Jaffa remain and it is worth taking a stroll along Kedem Street, which runs along the sea. (The only crime that a visitor might encounter is having his or her car broken into.) To get to Ajami, take the southern exit from the Jaffa Port and walk up the steps leading to Hazedef Street. At the bottom of the street is the Ali Caravan Hummus restaurant (1 Dolfin Street), one of the most famous hummus joints in Israel. The small hole-in-the-wall restaurant is open every day until the hummus runs out – about noon, so go early. At 41 Kedem Street is a small Nargila club, complete with waterpipes and tea, and in the small bakery at 44 Kedem Street, Lebanese-style pita can be bought. Good local kebab can be had at Salim’s Place (52 Ibn Sina Street).

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Shopping in Tel Aviv

Of all the fashion boutiques in Tel Aviv, Comme il Faut is the only one that combines the latest fashions with ideology. Its stylish clothing is designed for real women of all sizes who do not want to submit to the images that society forces upon them. In addition to its feminist agenda, the chain makes an effort to advance various social issues and to produce its clothes in facilities in Israel with fair work conditions. The carefully decorated store in the Tel Aviv Port also sells items by designers from around the world, jewelry, and shoes (Hangar 26, Tel. (03) 604-1025).
For unique Judaica, it is worth visiting the gallery of artist Frank Meisler in Old Jaffa. He creates sculptures and Judaica from bronze, silver, and gold that radiate humor, originality, and a love of life (25 Mazal Arie Alley, Old Jaffa, Tel. (03) 681-3502).
Finally, don’t miss Dori Changri’s breathtaking boutique. This talented designer offers an array of purses, wallets, and jewelry with a wonderfully distinctive style. It is hard to say whether the style is bohemian chic or ancient royalty, but in any case, any item from her store can make any look unforgettable (242 Dizengoff Street, Tel. (03) 604-3273.

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Dining in Tel Aviv

Tel Aviv offers an abundance of excellent restaurants and culinary trends sweep through the city at a dizzying pace. One of the more successful trends is kosher gourmet cuisine. The Lilith restaurant was perhaps one of the first heralds of this trend. Lilith has a Mediterranean menu with dishes such as glazed liver in silan (date honey) with peanut, orange, and coriander salad (Asia House, 2 Dafna Street, Tel. (03) 609-1331). The Deca restaurant takes the kosher trend a step further, serving up gourmet Israeli cuisine with French influences. Talented chef Chaim Cohen created a menu that includes excellent fish dishes, such as sea bass on a bed of quinoa ragout with beet salad with scallion dressing and yellowtail sashimi served with steamed zucchini, yogurt, mint, and olive oil (10 Hata’asia Street, Tel. (03) 562-9900, kosher).
The most sizzling restaurant in Tel Aviv these days is not part of the kosher trend, but the herald of a new one – excellent gourmet food in a casual atmosphere. Chef Jonathan Roshfeld presides over the kitchen of Herbert Samuel, creating a not-to-be-missed culinary experience (6 Kaufman Street, Tel.  (03) 516-6516, not kosher).

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Dizengoff Street

Today Dizengoff is a fashion empire, where clothes can be found for every taste and every age. Dizengoff Center was the first shopping mall in Israel. It is divided in two, running down both sides of Dizengoff Street. Dizengoff Circle is named after Meir Dizengoff’s wife Zina. The northeastern corner of the square is the site of the Cinema Hotel (1 Zamenhoff Street), formerly the Ester Cinema, with 1,000 seats and a European aura. At number 6 Zina Square, you will find the antique shop, Glory, where everything can be found. Dizengoff 99 is the Bauhaus center with changing exhibitions. There are many designers along Dizengoff Street. Ilana Efrati (number 266) specializes in the tailored look. Ronen Chen (155) is a member of the younger generation of designers. Lulu Liam’s store, Banot, is at number 212. Gertrude Fashion (number 225) is the place for lingerie. Haya Nir (number 173) sells evening clothes; Yosef Peretz specializes in evening gowns (number 213). Keren and Tomer Banker are at number 210. Other notable stores are Maschio for men’s shoes (number 190), Shufra for women’s shoes (number 108), and Boutique Kala (number 218) for wedding gowns.

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 Bialik Street

Start at 2 Bialik Street, a beautiful 1932 building home to Café Bialik. Bialik Street was a cultural and political center in the early days of the Hebrew state. Hayyim Nahman Bialik, the national poet, lived on the street named in his honor. Bialik’s house (number 22) is built in the eclectic style prevalent in 1924. The Felicia Blumenthal music center (number 26) is located on the site of the Shenkar family’s house. The former Tel Aviv city
hall stands at the end of the street, overlooking Bialik Square. In the center of the square is a mosaic by Gutman telling the 4,000-year history of Jaffa and Tel Aviv. Painter Reuven Rubin’s house (number 14) serves as a museum of his works. Take the steps down to Tchernichovsky Street. From here it is a short distance to the Bezalel Market, a classic discount clothing market. The venerable porcelain shop at the corner of Tchernichovsky is still open for business; nearby are a secondhand bookstore (number 36) and a comic book store (number 40). Don’t forget to stop at Pollak’s antique map store (number 42). On an alley leading off King George Street, Simta Almonit, is the coffee shop Sonia Getzl Shapira with its quaint garden and great cakes.
(photo: Tagist Ron)

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Itinerary

Day 1: The Beauty of Jaffa

Start at the clock tower plaza, the heart of Ottoman Jaffa. Walk up Mifratz Shlomo Street to Kedumim Square and the grand Franciscan church of St. Peter. Walk through the artists’ colony to the port. Walk back along Yefet Street to the flea market around Beit Eshel Street. At 3 Beit Eshel Street, you’ll find the Dr. Shakshouka Restaurant with Tripolitan food. Pua (8 Rabbi Yohanan Street) is also an interesting restaurant.
(photo: Tagist Ron)

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Day 2: Historic Tel Aviv

Start at the northern end of Herzl Street. On the corner of Ahad Ha’am Street stands Akiva Arieh Weiss’ house, the first building in Tel Aviv. Across the street stands the now-dilapidated Shalom Tower, the first high-rise in the city. Walk to Nahalat Benjamin, a neighborhood built in 1911. The 1920s houses along the street, with their “Hebrew” motives are a great backdrop for the art and craft fair, which is held here on Tuesdays and Fridays. The favorite haunts of old-timers, like Café Birnbaum and the Robinson antique bookstore, are always worth a visit. Stroll down Allenby Street and look at the houses decorated with the famous Bezalel mosaic panels. Allenby also sports a lot of second-hand stores, cheap clothing outlets, and more. Rothschild Boulevard connects the historic center of Tel Aviv to the old cultural center at Habimah Theater. Strolling along Rothschild, the building styles gradually progress from fantasy dream houses of the 1920s, to the early Israeli style of the 1950s.

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Day 3: Neve Tzedek

The 120-year-old Neve Tzedek quarter has become a popular address for the upscale Tel Avivian. Rokach House (36 Rokach Street) was the most elaborate of the neighborhood’s buildings. The building houses a period museum. The Nachum Gutman Museum of Art (39 Neve Tzedek Street) presents the works of Gutman, a Tel Aviv artist. Shabazi Street, the neighborhood’s main street, is full of small stores and restaurants. The street leads to the Suzanne Dellal center, home of the Batsheva Dance Company. Not far from here is Lillenblum Street, with its lively bar scene.

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Day 4: Jerusalem

Start at the Tower of David Museum on the history of Jerusalem, at the Jaffa Gate. Walk down David Street. Turn left onto Christian Quarter Street and walk to the alley of Saint Helena that leads down to the Holy Sepulcher. Tour the churches around the Tomb of Jesus. Exit by the small doorway to the Muristan Market. Walk to the market street of Khan e-Zeit. Turn right and walk down the ancient Crusader markets. (The central one has less freshly butchered meat hanging on hooks.) Turn left on David Street and make your way round the corner to Sisileh Street. Walk down the street to the street turning to the Kotel. Take the Rabbi Yehudah Halevi steps up to the Jewish Quarter. Make your way through the quarter to Zion Gate, walk out the gate, turn right, and walk back to the Jaffa Gate.

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Day 5: Along the Coast

Take Route 2 to Haifa. On the way, drop in on ancient Caesarea. In Haifa, visit the Bahai center and the German Colony. Continue north to Acre for a visit to the Old City and to Rosh Hanikra for a visit to the Sea Grottos. On the way back, stop off at Zichron Ya’acov. Chocolate cake at the restaurant in the pink house is a must.

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Day 6: To the Negev

Take Route 4 to Yad Mordechai. Take Route 34 to Route 232, go left on Route 25 and right on Route 232. Take Route 222 to Route 40 and drive to Midreshet Sde Boker to visit Ben-Gurion’s grave. Continue to the ancient Nabatean city of Avdat and Mitzpe Ramon. At the traffic circle at the entrance to Mitzpe Ramon, go left on the dirt road to the Sculpture Park. Return to Mitzpe Ramon and drive through it to Camel Hill to watch the sun set over the Ramon Crater. Stop at the restaurant at the visitors’ center and drive back to Tel Aviv.

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Hotels in the Big City

Images of broad beaches and shimmering blue water, a deluxe hotel with a complete menu of services, a pampering massage or beauty treatment at a luxurious spa, gourmet meals, and sports and activities that are fun for the entire family feature prominently in most people’s vacation plans. The Dan hotels in Tel Aviv offer all that and more. The Dan Tel Aviv is one of the few hotels in Israel that is a member of the organization known as the Leading Hotels of the World, which regularly conducts anonymous inspections to confirm that members meet all of the 1,500 requirements of an excellent hotel. The Dan Panorama Tel Aviv is the city’s only resort hotel. It offers all of the comforts of a resort in a large, luxurious hotel that is only a short stroll from the most enchanting parts of the City of Tel Aviv-Jaffa.

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Attractions near the Dan Hotels

The Dan Panorama Tel Aviv offers easy access to the charms of Old Jaffa – the artists’ quarter, the flea market, the port, and the small, colorful streets that are a pleasure to wander through. Heading in the other direction, one can explore the roots of Tel Aviv in Neve Tzedek, the museums on Rothschild Boulevard that relate the history of Israel and Tel Aviv, and the fantastic Bauhaus architecture that has earned Tel Aviv the name “the White City.”
Modern Tel Aviv is nearby as well in the form of the Nahalat Binyamin craft fair, the Suzanne Dellal performing arts center, and the promenade extending the entire length of the Tel Aviv beach, situated directly across the street from the hotel. Two of Tel Aviv’s most popular beaches are also right across the street, and the hotel’s outdoor pool is the largest in the city.
The Dan Tel Aviv’s location, about a kilometer north of the Dan Panorama Tel Aviv, also is enviable. Not only is the hotel minutes from both Israel’s main business district and the sea, but it also is just a short walk from the art galleries on Gordon Street, the fashionable clothing shops on Dizengoff Street, and the headquarters of many of Israel’s leading companies.

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Copyright ERETZ Magazine 2008